Frosted Shimmery Winter Blue Cancer Zodiac Makeup Tutorial 2016 | Lillee Jean
*Maybelline Fit Me! Dewy Foundation, Porcelain
*Cover Fx Cream Foundation, N100+N10
*Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powder, Mirage Filter
*Urban Decay Naked Illuminated Shimmering Powder, Illuminated
*ABH Illuminator, Starlight
Being I had planned to use a drugstore foundation for this makeup tutorial, having extra clean skin was a must! Probably many of you know this but drugstore foundations are notorious for clogging pores, needless to say scrub a’ dub dub ya’ face ;). I went for my Origins Rose Clay Mask primarily because I’m lazy (wayyyyyy too much work to exfoliate, then rinse, then get bothered by dry patches still present) and it’s a 3 in one! Meaning, as soon as I let the MASK dry onto my skin, after a few seconds of water activation the mask turns into a gel/scrub formula which obviously is amazing because it works to brush off any dead skin cells with giving me nice morning cleanse. I actually have a mini review on this located on my Instagram, definitely check it out! Besides my self promotion, after the mask was fully off my skin, I patted my face dry and applied a beaker amount of Fresh’s Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face. Oil’s generally take longer to absorb than creams so be sure to know your product inside and out, whatever you apply sinks in!
Today was the day of the beauty blender. I swear, everything including my facial primer was applied with a beauty blender. As all of you guys know my holy grail is officially Natasha Denona’s Face Glow Hydrating Primer! For quite some time I was very fond of the Hourglass N28, until I realized it did shit to tame dry patches. Interestingly the hydrating primer works long term, in other words even without makeup usage on top it works to remove patches! To apply the primer I used my Beauty Blender Pure and evenly stippled the formula out from the center of my face out to my hairline! Be sure to expand out towards the hairline because if your foundation is the wrong shade, oxidizes, or flakes off during the day, a noticeable difference will be seen. I allowed the primer to set for a good 5 minutes until I went into the next step!
While it is not the first time I used the Fit Me! foundation by Maybelline, I experienced the product in a new way. A few months back I had done an ALL drugstore tutorial, though I never posted it, it was completed. The issue with that drugstore tutorial was the foundation was complete and utter poop! From August on I was anti-drugstore, like even Nyx was a no go for me. Then a week ago I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a few products, which I teased you guy’s with on Twitter with! Let me tell you- BEST decision ever. Each product I bought (you’ll find out soon in a HUGE haul video) is super practical and works amazing for my skin! ANYHOO back to the foundation application. I wish this had a pump but sadly it doesn’t, so I poured out as close to a quarter sized amount onto the back of my hand! Then going into the product with the fat side of my Beauty Blender Pro I began to stipple the product onto my skin. There really is no method when it comes to blending with the Beauty Blender, as long as you stick to bouncing/beating/buffing motions, all should go well! Since I moved right into the cream contour process I didn’t bother allowing the foundation to dry.
Generally speaking a bronzer should be to add warmth TOO ONLY 2 distinct areas, the second is quite iffy. If you happen to opt in for a matte bronzer, which has its benefits for this look, promptly move forth in brushing the product across the sides of you nose as well as from the “3” of your face. For me I went for a shimmer bronzer because it complemented the whole dynamic of the look much better! Do keep in mind a few things; matte will make the shimmer more prominent, and shimmer will exude off shimmer. With that being said, using my Mac 168 brush and Hourglasses Ambient Bronzer in Luminous Bronze Light, I brushed the powder on the temples of my face down to my cheekbones and around to my jaw line! These are area’s the sun naturally hits. I avoided bringing the product to the sides of my nose only for the reason shimmer particles will not slenderize, they focus light and in the case of the sides of one’s nose that’ll make it appear wider. Thought very optional, after bronzing my skin I decided to deepen up my contour just a bit using the Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powders! With the same Mac 168 brush I simply re-contoured my cheekbones and the sides of my nose with fluent brushing motions. Adding this step forms a gradience which at first glance to anyone is MUCH more natural in appearance than one large streak of contour/bronze!
Anything other than Nars’s Gaiety Blush is pretty much a no-go. Try to avoid medium bright pinks such as Tarte’s Dollface blush as well as super bright pinks leaning towards Mac’s Well Dressed Blush! Gaiety consists of the perfect balance between a beautiful flush that’s easy to tone up or down as well as an extreme pink contrasting very well against the blue shadows. Though I’d love to describe the fancy maneuvers done too get Gaiety at its full potential, nothing special was done here! For instance, I simply brushed off excess contour powder from my 168 and proceeded to applying the brush from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline in smooth fluid motions back and forth. I also made sure to work in layers JUST in case I wanted more intense pigment! If you want to change things up and use a cream blush, I highly suggest Nyx’s Glow only because it is light yet very luminous on the skin which will compensate for the bright flush applied in this step.
The illumination process is EXTREMELY important for this look, more so than any other makeup tutorial apart of the Zodiac series! IF the wrong shade is chosen it will completely throw off the look, so will the usage of the product in incorrect high pointed areas. To begin I started by taking Benefit’s High Beam onto the bridge of my nose, the high points of my cheek bones, on my cupid’s bow, and on my forehead. The main purpose for this product is to scout out area’s light naturally bounces off of to form the illusions of higher pulled cheekbones, slimmer nose structures, as well as just a healthy glowy appearance! After placing High Beam on the area’s of my preference, I then picked up my Beauty Blender Pro and gently dabbed the product in with light stippling motions. Using the same BB I smudged the sponge into Abh’s Starlight and proceeded on too smudging the shade onto my cheek bones with light yet firm side to side motions, I occasional used patting motion’s to diffuse the shade into my hairline. Notice how Starlight is a VERY pale gold/white, this is the spectrum you want to stay in. Anything leaning towards peach (Champagne Pop) or gold (Opal) will bring a different aspect to this look that is not welcomed! Even though Starlight gives of a gorgeous glow, extra shimmer particles were needed, this is a Zodiac makeup look after all. Using the Urban Decay Naked Illuminated powder in Illuminated I smudged the shimmer across ONLY high points, I avoided the diffusing out method. For example, Illuminated was applied ONLY on the one area light natural hits on me, not the full cheek bone going up to my hairline! The same concept goes for the bridge of my nose, light naturally only hits midway up the bridge, so as you probably guessed I dabbed a tiny bit right at the midway point. Avoid any pink highlighters for this, it’ll detract away from the lippppppps!
Once my lips were dried I proceeded to patted Mac’s Prep + Prime right under my eyes to ensure fine lines blurred out, not that I have any but it forms more of a “photoshopped” appearance as the result is near perfect. You might be wondering why I did not list this in the products, the reason being I have NOT a clue why I opted in for this powder, it really is useless to this look, but you read the part of it so enjoy the little tongue twister of “prep plus prime”. Lately I have been gravitating towards my Laura Mecier Loose Powder more so than my MUFE HD Setting Powder, though it might be due to me having no stock of the HD powder, the L.M. tends to work extremely well with my skin! With that being the case I gently patted on the powder using a dampened BB. I applied to my under-eye area in the exact positioning of my highlight, in between my cheek and jaw contour, on my forehead, beside my nostrils, and on my chin! After applying lashes and such (I used the baking method for only 3 minutes) I then took my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush and gently dusted the excess product off. In the tutorial this had to be one of the MOST boring of all setting spray moments, but I didn’t want to drag the video on any longer than it had been, to keep it concise as I know most are eager to find out what was done on my lids all I had done is sprayed 6-10 X shaped lines a few inches away from my face and with my free hand waved it up and down like a fan to dry the spray!
*Revlon Cream Eyeshadow Pallet, Black Magic (light pearl shade)
*Tarte Tartlette Pallet: Free Spirit, Force of Nature
*Nyx Prismatic Eyeshadow, Frostbite
*Abh Illuminator, Starlight
*Colourpop Super Shock Eyeshadow, Glitterati + Baby T
*BH Cosmetics Glitter Collection, Silver
*Urban Decay Vice 3 Pallet, Heroine
*Lancome Hypnose Doll Lashes, So Black!
*Andrea Modlash Lashes, Black 21
YAAYYY!! I had such a good brow day it was unbelievable. Ever since I bought a new and improved Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush, my eyebrows have been sharp! The inside joke here is within every blog post I alter between hating and loving my brows- it’s a Romeo and Juliet thang. The good news is while the list above looks overwhelming each shadow is practical and relates to one another, thus making it not so overwhelming in reality! Anyhoo, just as always I spoolied, lined, filled and spoolied once more. You guy’s can go ahead and choose whatever brow shape you fancy; strong brows, soft brows, they all work for this! Once I had my brows done I moved straight into priming my lids, I was actual quite surprised with the quality of Revlon’s Cream Eyeshadow pallet in Black Magic. Normally cream shadow’s are greasy and all shades of yuck! The Revlon one however was very creamy and smooth on the lids, it also help my shadow a remarkable amount of time. Since the shades aren’t named, using the first shade (pearly) I dipped my finger in and smudged the color all over my lid blending up to my brow bone! You want to make sure all zones of your eye is drenched with this cream color.
The first few colors placed on the lid involve all but a finger, literally haha! Lillee’s gone tactical ;). The primary shade’s you’ll need is Anastasia Beverly Hill’s highlighter in Starlight and Colourpop’s Glitterati! If by any chance your illuminator is already a pale off white just opt in for that, having ABH Starlight is not a necessity, it just adds to the look (for those of you who know me, you’d be informed this is satire- OF COURSE YOU NEED STARLIGHT OH MY GOOOOD, YOU GOTTA SHINE LIKE A DIAMOND GIRL). Okay, moving besides my odd sense of humor- I smudged on Starlight with my ring finger in a single layer to my lid. Avoid more than a single layer for the simple reason Colourpop shadows require some stickiness to have full fledge pigment. BE SUPER careful with Glitterati, too much will yield a gold hue, simply smudge your finger in the pan once and then proceed too smudging it onto your mid lid area!
While trying to find the link for the Tartlette pallet I freaked out a tad- for some odd reason there is now a matte pallet of the Tarte In Bloom Pallet…and it’s named Tartlette. Completely confusing! Besides that you want to make sure your transitional shade is peachy and “barley there”. It’s just to create a dimension to the lids as well as a guide for the bright blues too come! Mixing Free Spirit and Force of Nature together with my Mac 217 brush, I gently YET firmly eased the mixture into my crease with side to side motions. Be sure to avoid any circular motions, this will just eliminate the pigment containing loose shimmer particles that was placed on the lid prior to this step! After I had a peachy transitional shade set (closest to my undertones) I moved forth in adding the first bright blue, Fresh Water. Most of you know this is my absolute favorite shade by mac, it’s stunning! With the same Mac 217, I softly blended the summer blue into my crease. I personally was not in the mood to build up pigment so I went in with a lump sum and worked on blending it in with side to side motions. Here is where it is acceptable to use tiny circular motions because it adds to the gradience of blue-skintone. The next shade up is a mixture of Mac’s Atlantic Blue and Electric Eel! These two together make a gorgeous azure blue, which compliments a bright pink lip extremely well. Just as I blended in Fresh Water, these two colors were transitioned in with side to side motions and ease of touch! Try to aim for intense pigment rather wishy washy shades, that isn’t what this verdict sign is about.
In the video I was babbling about Nyx and Idol Eyes- no clue. The one true outcome from that babble is I mixed Frostbite and Idol Eyes together and placed the mixture right in the inner corners of my eyes! Don’t be afraid to build up pigment with Idol Eyes, the more icy purple’s, the better. When it comes to deepening up the crease work in CATION, if you add too much black/dark blue it becomes an uber smokey eye. If you don’t add enough black/dark blue it becomes flat! Using Baby T by Colourpop (my favorite shade by them) and a Mac 239, I first began by promptly lining my lower lash line, just too add some depth. This whole endeavor lead up to me PATTING NOT BLENDING Baby T right into the inner v of my eye! I made sure to work in flat patting motions for the sake of craving a deep ocean blue. Going back to the concept of black can steer smokey or too flat, I actually did incorporate Mac’s Carbon into this look! Generally I opt in for my Makeup Geek Corrupt, but that shadow is WAYYYY too pigmented. Switching back to my Mac 217, I gently steered Carbon into my crease starting from the outer curvature inwards. In other words, starting from the outer V in I softened the deep black in! Work in layers for this one, harsh pigment techniques such as the one that was used with Fresh Water will work against you.
As you progress along with the crease it is inevitable the lid shade will be altered ever so slightly, meaning it’ll have a blue tint! Before I had the grand idea to add Heroine into my crease I actually moved along to finishing my lower lash line up. To do so I used my Mac 239 and starting from where Baby T left off I smudged Mermaid in! The lower lash line was really done to encompass ALL shades in the cancer spectrum. Though the colors appear faded and light, I wanted to bright the “light”, to do so I added ONE fairy like shade which happens to be Daydreamer by Makeup Geek. This shade was smudged right into the inner corners of my eye (put right up against the mix of Idol Eyes & Frostbite). It took me a while to plan this out and the decision sat between to use glitter, to not use glitter. I decided to give glitter a go because I freaking love it! As a Giselle I modeled in the video how I applied specially the Bh Cosmetics Silver glitter to my lids. Simply tilting my head back I patted on the glitter using a Mac 219, no exact focus point was used I just wanted to get some shine on my eyes! The grand finale of glitter was to sit upright and shake my head around, just to uh…remove excess glitter. I swear, I was not woozy on anything! After the glitter was set I then FINALLY had the epiphany too add on Heroine to the crease. This shade really smoked things up without being too harsh, which is the effect I was going for! Switching back to my Mac 217 I roughly blended in Heroine for optional pigment. After blending in the deep blue I switched to my Mac 224 and swiftly softened the harsh lines in my crease up! Especially if you’re applying a ton of vibrant pigment to your lids a fluffy blending brush is quite handy.
What better brush to have than a multi purpose one?! I doubt I am the only human being who uses their eyebrow brush as a gel liner brush too…right? WHO CARES ITS AMAZING. With that Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush I promptly lined my upper lash line and proceeded to lining my waterline with swift side to side motions using my Bobbi Brown Gel Liner. I made sure to smudge the gel liner a tad onto the outer part of lower lash line for more drama! Do be noted it took me 20 minutes to get a perfect wing, precision is KEY here. Also be aware that the line is not as black as I normally make it, it sort of fades out! After all of that fun stuff with lining I then moved forth in dolling my lashes up with Lancome’s Hypnose Doll Lash Mascara. This stuff is amazing and works on all types of lashes, my go to! Be sure to use falsies BUT avoid overly dramatic ones, it’ll take away from the beauty of the blue-teal gradience. Being my mom is a Cancer (this look is for her, she doesn’t know yet!) I took some key notes from her from the years of doing her makeup for special events and clients! Some of the major things that come up is “I LOVEEE lashes”, and “Oooh I love pink lips”. Two lines, I made true.