Lillee Jean 2016 Glamorous Rustic Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial
Good afternoon everyone! I decided to throw a rustic look your way that can be dolled up or down any way you fancy. Stay tuned for Sunday night, a super dramatic tutorial will be done that MIGHT be in the pink spectrum. For today don’t stress lashes or even perfect skin the main focus is darling rustic hues and a doll like glow. By the way I am absolutely in love with the Natasha Denona products I had bought two weeks ago. Normally after a while makeup stops gelling with my skin but this covers the finest of breakouts and doubles as a long wear SPF foundation (defiantly cool). Be sure to check out my haul video/blog post for an in depth review of the product! This look took me all of 50 minutes to do, and minus the lashes only 47! Obviously as said above you can change it up however you want, wether it be with a darker lip or no lipstick this is the perfect everyday look. Lately I have been incorporating some natural toned makeup as it has been highly requested, so as always if you have anything you’d like to see give me a message! Oo just as a side note better quality videos will be coming soon, I just need a CF card for my camera 🙂
I got into a super Lillee mood prior to the actual makeup application, and decided to experiment a bit. Sounds quite…odd, however the skin benefits received were flippin’ amazing! Basically, I took two masks and seconded them across different zones of my face that needed either a; hydration or b; refining. Using Peter Thomas Roth’s Irish Moor Mud Purifying Black Mask I spread it over my entire cheek area as well as on my nose and slightly on my forehead. These areas tend to get super clogged pore wise for me, thus making this purifying mask the bomb.com. As for the hydration I lightly speared on Fresh’s Rose Mask to my chin and VERY scarcely on the bridge of my nose (I mixed the mud with roses). After allowing the mixture(s) to set for 1 hour (you really are suppose to let the masks set for 5-10 minutes but hey, screw it) I gently washed them off with warm water and pat dried my skin with a towel. I set everything with a light dousing of Fresh’s Seaberry Oil! Oils generally take longer to set than regular creams so do be aware of the product formulation you’re using, especially with a look focusing on doll like glows. Excess oily skin is not the goal here.
Once the oil fully absorbed into my skin I moved straight to primer! There seems to be quite the confusion on what primer one should buy- purchase whatever benefits your skin most. For example, currently my skin is dry thus me needing a hydrating primer such as Natasha Denona’s Face Glow H.P. In other cases there might be an excess of oil which yields the purchase of an oil controlling primer. It all comes down to what stage your skin is at, there is never a definite primer choice! Anyhoo, with the Face Glow Primer, which happens to give the best glow effects without clogging my pores, I gently spread the cream from the center of my face out towards my hairline. This is basically like applying any moisturizer, its just a different formula thats made to prolong and enhance makeup application! I allowed the primer to set for 5 minutes, by then it was fully matted down and absorbed into my skin.
Right after priming move along to foundation, unless you’re using a method involving foundation as a succeeding step. With exactly one pump of Natasha Denona’s Face Glow Foundation onto the back of my hand, I gently swipped the product off and patted it right under my left eye using a Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush. This brush works best with this foundation in specific, picks up the most product and distributes it best! Enough of my hero worship- after patting the product under my left eye, I then began to stipple and downward drag it out towards my hairline for the most natural finish. IF extra coverage was needed I simply stippled (to concentrate in a specific area) and burred the edges on those areas. Continue the same motions until your skin is fully covered! Never work in large sums of foundation to blend by the way, work in layers. This makes it easier to add powders later!
Contouring is not an option, sorry loves. This look was built around doll like glows, don’t get it twisted with flawless skin! Any tools can be used to contour such as your finger, a brush, or an applicator sponge. Due to me using heavy creams I opted in for a savvy Urban Decay Naked 3 brush! The bristles are AMAZING when it comes to product application, and product pickup so this just goes to show all of you it doesn’t matter what you use- wether its labeled “contour brush” or not use what works for you! “When do I use a lighter concealer or skin tone one?” Since someone asked me this question last night, I figured I’d answer it here. The most concise version I can cook up is; if you want to highlight go for a lighter concealer, if you want to cover a blemish go for a green primer to counteract redness and skin tone concealer, and if you want to deepen (contour) go for a few shades darker! I might open up a Q&A section on my blog just so you guys can interact more with me. Anyhoo, moving along- using G10 from the Cover Fx cream foundations collection I drew two upside down triangles on my under eye area along with a line from my forehead down to the bridge of my nose, and one line from my left jaw to my right jaw. To contour I took the color N100 and gently drew two lines down the sides of my nose that connected at the tip as well as singular lines on my cheekbones & jaw lines. Never fully go by the way one contours unless you have a similar face shape, this goes the same for color choice. For instance, I highlight with a golden color while I contour with a neutral shade. For most this will clash too much! There is no need to let your contour/highlight set, simply move to the blending stage. Using an Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and swift circular motions I blended everything in jaw up! Most people like to start from the center of their face and blend outwards towards the hairline, however as being a super overwhelmed person bottom up works best :).
Incorporating a bronzer in your daily routine is one of the best things you could do! Not only does it remove zombie like complexions after cream contouring, but it can also double as an eyeshadow. Before getting into what I had done know matte bronzers can be used to set contours! Using a Mac 168 I gently brushed Bobbi Browns Bronzing Powder in Golden Light from my temples down to my cheek bones and finally to the curve of my jaw line. This is called the “outer 3” of your face however everyone bronzes different, especially if you’re using the matte powder as a contour setter! For instance, while someone using a shimmery bronzer won’t apply it to the sides of their nose one using a matte bronzer will- you have to know your products ;)! With that same 168 I furthered my contour with the dark bronze shade provided in the MJ #instamarc pallet (I don’t focus much on powder highlighting as it dulls my skin out, always go for what works for you). I gently dusted the product on the sides of my nose as well as concentrated strictly in the hollows of my cheeks! Be sure to blend away harsh lines so the contour looks as natural as possible.
Once you have chiseled you cheeks and given yourself a sun bunny glow, go forth in blushing! I opted in for a neutral toned coral as it works wonderfully with rustic shades. Any neutral pink will do as well, just be sure it hinders coral/orange/red notes NOT purple. With gently patting motions I applied Guava/Moonstone to the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline. Due to this product holding serious shimmer I worked in layers to control application! I highly suggest using a cream blush as it creates a more natural finish.
Adding the liquid illuminator to this step is completely up to you however it holds the powder much better and creates a more “life like” appearance. With that being said, I brushed on Benefit’s High Beam to the tops of my cheekbones, on the bridge of my nose and slightly on my cupids bow. Basically you want to apply the highlight on the high points of your face! Keep in mind (for brush users) if you dab the product in there will be excess left, don’t pack on the shimmer use light amounts. Speaking of dabbing in, with my Sephora Teardrop Highlighting Brush I brushed the product upwards (for an uplifted effect) and downwards (this way it was evenly disbursed). To set the glow I applied N.D Face & Body Shimmer. Those exact areas liquid illuminated is were I applied the powder, also I brushed excess product onto my forehead (near the tops of my brows) and on my chin (very light amount!).
Especially if you’re molding this to an everyday makeup look, setting powder & spray is extremely important! Before setting anything however be sure to do this lips. Many people like to do this as a last step but miss the fact setting spray is used for a reason (to lock everything, including the lipstick in place). I lined my lips with Colourpop’s Frida and filled them in with Lumiere! Any simple mauve/pink will work just be sure it is commentary to the eyes. As my last two finishing steps I dusted on Makeup Forevers HD Setting Powder with that same Sephora Teardrop Highlighting Brush to my T zone and under eye area, then sprayed Urban Decays All Nighter Spray around every angle of my face. I like to move my head around this way it splats onto every nook and cranny! Keep in mind that this look is easy to change! For example, instead of a red smoked out effect under the eyes you could opt in for brown, or grey.
One of the most important steps to do in any makeup look besides priming is to fill in the brows! The shape you choose for your brows really defines the makeup look as well as your face shape (yes your face shape can be altered just by a simple flick of the brush). Please excuse my poorly done step by step pictorial, I tried to center my final image as best as I could! Anyhoo, speaking of the brows I gently spoolied through both using an Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush, then using my dipbrow pomade filled them in using light brush strokes. I tend to go for intense brows, so be sure you choose whatever works best for you OR take a step on the wild side and switch it up ;)! Once your brows are completed go forth in priming the lids. I always find cream bases to be much more effective than ACTUAL priming bases, no idea why I just find they hold the product better, which shouldn’t be the case at all. With that being said I smudged Bobbi Brown’s Cream Shadow in Bone across my entire lid area and smeared up up to my brow bone.
I can not tell you guys how determined I was to get some usage out of my Too Faced Le Grand Palais pallet! As you probably saw in my last review, this pallet looks beautiful but pigment wise is horrible, which is primarily why I stressed the cream shadow primer. The first color that really drew to me was City Lights! It is a very unique hazelnut shade that can would work for anyone as its rather neutral. Using a Mac 239 brush I gently patted the shade across my entire lid area. As I said, these colors are not pigmented, thus it took a good 4 layers before I got anywhere near the pigment showed in picture 2! Right after getting my base shade I then moved along to the transitional color. I opted in for a basic taupe with slight warm undertones, that being Cobblestone. With the flip side of my Urban Decay Vice 3 brush I gently eased Cobblestone into my crease, I used a variation of side to side and circular motions to make sure the shade was evenly disbursed.
Once the transitional shade was set I then started to work on building up drama. By this point you could be done and set it with some mascara, but for those of you looking to POW and BAM out of the crowd, read on ;). One of the first steps to adding a rustic touch is actually adding a rusty color, duh! Using Melrose from Colourpop’s Forever Freshmen Kit, I gently eased it into the inner V of my eye with a Mac 217. If you must build up pigment (I had to) work in layers, never add a lump sum of product especially when working in a very small area of the eye! When it comes to the inner V also keep in mind you should follow the natural crease of your eye socket. To finish up I dusted Icon into the inner inner V with light side to side and patting motions. This color was added in photo 5 but then deepened tremendously in the last picture, why? NO idea I just had the bright idea to create a smokier eye.
The tricky part is really the lower lash line, not the crease. Before beginning, if you don’t have the exact products I do just have a dark brown, black, rust, and light shelly pink equipped! The first color I smudged on my lower lash line was Muse using a Mac 219 brush. Basically, I just smudged the color side to side with a few patting motions, be dually noted that I INTENSIFIED the color a lot in the last photo, use it as a guide :)! Right after applying Muse I then smudged the color Aura right onto the tear ducts of my eyes as well as slightly on the lower lash line. This is forming a slight gradience in color!
This might seem odd but using the same eyebrow brush as mentioned above I dug into Bobbi Brown’s Black Ink Gel Liner and gently lined my upper lash line and waterline with smooth fluid strokes. I always find that most products with labels such as “eyeshadow brush” or “eyebrow brush” double as so many other things! For example, in the case of Mac eyeshadow brush’s (Mac 239, 217…) they can be used to apply lipstick, blend in cream highlights or even to give a precise contour, though i’d be hard. With that being said, be sure to smudge your butt’s off with Stiletto from the Le Grand Palais Pallet. If the black is too intense you can always opt in for Icon (dirty brown)! Starting from my outer lower lash line in I began to smudge the black above the previous gradience (the red to light gold we did in the previous step before the liner) using a Mac 219 brush. If you’re looking for a stronger highlight to the brows by the way simply take your face glow powder and brush it on!
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