Ocean Blue Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial 2016 | Lillee Jean
*Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer, Fair Neutral
*Cover Fx Cream Foundation, N100
*Too Faced Bronzer, Snow Bunny
*Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powder, Mirage Filter
*NYX Cream Blush, Boho Chic
*Nars Multiple, Copacabana
One of the first things I had done is take a shower, this way my skin was steamed and all my clogged pores were freshened up. Rather a normal cleansing routine I opted in for a facial mask, in specific Peter Thomas Roth’s Irish Moor Mud Purifying Black Mask . This stuff always makes my skin look completely refreshened and clean I’d highly recommend investing in a jar as it has lasted a years’ time. Once I scrubbed the mask off I then set my skin with a light layer of Fresh’s Seaberry Oil! Depending on what your skin routine is, allow your last step (moisturizing) to set for a few minutes. Since I used a thick oil I let it set 10 minutes total :)! I am an impatient person so if you happen to be like me I’d suggest setting up your makeup area with all the products, or perhaps look for the perfect lip color for this look. It passes time, and keeps the jitters away.
Once my skin finally absorbed the oil I moved onto priming my skin. I’m trying to preserve my beloved Hourglass N28 as it is running low in product quantity, in the meantime I went for Dr Brandt’s Pores No More Primer. This primer gives a velvety smooth finish and defiantly gives a pore-less effect. With any primer start with a pea-sized amount and starting from the center of your face smooth the primer out towards your hairline. Follow this same smoothing, NOT TUGGING, method over all zones of your skin! Depending on if your primer contains oil or not, allow to set for 5 minutes, if it contains oil 7 minutes.
Today I had decided to use a foundation I literally never use in the Winter, Guerlian’s Lingerie De Peau Foundation. This is mostly steered towards a Summer foundation due to the SPF but from my memory I do reckon it never budging on dry patches and it smoothing over well my oily skin! This is defiantly worth the price. Besides that, take a pump of the foundation onto the back of your hand and with your favorite foundation brush/sponge (I went for my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush) gently ease the foundation on your skin starting from the center working your way out to your hairline. I typically do not use this easing out method as I am very rough when it comes to blending but today I wanted to give my skin a break, so really feel the motions and work with light strokes especially with liquidated less thick formulas! After you have covered all zones of your face completely (don’t worry if blemishes or marks show that’ll be covered during cream contouring) allow the foundation to set for a good 4 minutes.
Hehe, contouring, my love, my light, my…okay. Contouring saves my life, literally! Have a blemish? Highlight it. Have a weird bump? Highlight it. Want a smaller nose? Contour it. This is why I said in the previous step to not stress your skin still showing blemishes, it all gets covered since concealers and thick creams are being used. Its actually best to use lighter weight foundations if you’re doing a heavy contour! With my Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer, which I originally hated, go figure, I highlighted my under eye area with upside down triangles; down the bridge of my nose; my forehead; and from my left jaw to my chin and finally to my right jaw. As for contouring with Cover Fx’s Cream Foundation I contoured the sides of my nose, my cheeks, and a little bit in the socket of my eye! This was all done with my fingers (minus the highlighting since I use the applicator provided), thank you for the applause. Finish off the contoured look by blending things in…unless you like that look, go for it be you girl. With my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush I used very slight dragging outwards motions starting from the center of my face and branching out to other zones. The main idea here is to use delicate motions, this is a no tug zone. Once I reached my left cheek contour I began to use upward motions just to mimic the idea of uplifted cheek bones! After blending things in completely you should allow everything to set for 2 minutes, just to get excess oil off the skin.
Right after my contour set I then moved along to bronzing my skin! With the Too Faced Snow Bunny Bronzer and a Sephora #74 brush, I gently dragged the product from my temples down to my cheeks and finally to my jawline. This is super radiant, avoid applying any shimmer bronzers to the sides of your nose!! Right after bronzing the skin, aka bringing warmth back so you don’t look like a supermodel zombie, move along to setting the contour. I chose my favorite contouring pallet for use today which happens to be Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powders! Using the same Sephora #74 brush and the same light sweeping motions with occasional side to side and circular blending motions, ease the darker color into the hollows of your cheeks as well as on the sides of your nose. If you’d like you can always add a powder highlight, its just not my thing!
As you reach the near end of this look, don’t be too sad, be sure to get the eye products prepped! Once the contour is set move along to blush. I went for a subtle yet radiant pink, namely Nyx’s Cream Blush in Boho Chic! With my ring finger and middle finger together, I lighting dipped into the cream blush and starting from the apples of my cheeks (smile to see them) I stippled and dabbed the product up towards my hairline! Since I happened to have my fingers in good use I then took Nars’s Multiple in Copacabana and dragged it around the “C’s” of my eyes as well as down the bridge of my nose, straight from the tube. Then with downward dragging motions I gently blended the product in! One of the main focuses of this look is the glow, as mentioned earlier, so I set the Multiple Stick with Becca’s Opal! Once again with my fingers (I found it more effective in getting extreme pigment) I smudged the product down the bridge of my nose as well as on the high points of my cheekbones, on my cupids bow, and a little on my forehead+chin.
Once the eyes are complete move along to setting powder! For those of you who did the eye look first I highly suggest using the baking method, it helps clean up fall out in the long run. With my Makeup Forever HD Setting Powder and a Sephora #74 brush, I gently patted the product under my eyes, on my forehead, on my chin, as well as between my cheek and jaw contour. Right after doing the powder I quickly did my lips by applying ABH’s Milkshake, which leans beige on me no idea why. Simply finish off the look with a few sprays of Urban Decay’s All Nighter :)!
One of the first things I do in every makeup look is my brows! Having a good defined arch really helps shape the face, I should know I always end up shaving off half of my brow. Besides that true fact, be sure to have groomed brows as you can see since my last post the fuzz is gone! Using the Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and the pomade, I first began by spoolieing through each brow. This helps to have all the brow hairs in place for when you fill them in! Right after spoolieing I then lined my eyebrows to a soft arch (my preference) and filled them in with light brush strokes. A lot of people go the extra mile of brow setting gels but the ABH dipbrow lasts me hours without budging!
The first step to the shadow look involves adding a black shadow base. With my Nyx Shadow Base and a clean ring finger, I gently patted the product over my entire lid area. This has a tendency to transfer since it is a creamy product so work in layers! I highly suggest using a black base rather a nude or white base because it adds depth to Freshwater (mid lid shade).
*Too Faced Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet, Earl Grey
*Anastasia Beverly Hills Self-Made Eyeshadow Pallet, Spirit Rock, Buttery
*Mac Eyeshadow(s), Idol Eyes, Freshwater
Be sure to have a good base shade before proceeding to the shadow! With a clean Mac 239 brush I dipped my brush into the color Freshwater. Then, with light yet firm patting motions I applied the color right over the black shadow base. Be sure to continue this patting method until you receive a pigment similar to the one pictured above, it is super important this color is prominent straight from the beginning!
I was actually contemplating for about five minutes the crease color I wanted because this look could have went on of two ways: smoked out brown, or as chosen smoked out blue grey, which is one of my favorite colors from the Bon Bons Pallet! With a clean Mac 217 blending brush I went into the color Earl Grey and gently buffed it into my crease with side to side motions. I find it best to pat to color on the outer lid area first the gradually blend up following the eye socket! Don’t be afraid to extend the color outwards by the way, the farther you blend up towards the brow (with hopefully avoiding actually reaching that area) the more smoked out the look will be!
To add depth to my crease I went into the color Spirit Rock from ABH’s Self-Made Pallet! This is a super unique galaxy black, in my opinion using just a flat black will not give the same effect as this contains purple and blue reflects. With the same 217 blending brush I gently eased Spirit Rock into my inner V. Here is where you can really pack on the pigment and have fun with it. Always be sure to blend in circular and side to side motions within a certain range, in this case follow your natural eye socket. With the brush that came with the Self-Made Pallet I took the blending brush side and lightly blurred out any imperfections!
*Makeup Geek Gel Liner, Immortal
With a lip brush (it is square) I smudged the color Immortal on my waterline and slightly on my lower lash line. Where I originally put Spirit Rock is where most of the smudging occurred! Then I had lightly lined my upper lash line with slight tugging motions which gave me a smokey effect. I added a wing just because I like too fly.
*Lancome Hypnose Doll Lashes, So Black!
The finishing touches to this entire look include big fat smokey lashes, and falsies too! Apply SOOO many coats of mascara until everything is black, completely black and full. For some reason it bothers me when someone says “only apply two coats” because we all know no one applies only two! Right after doing the mascara I applied a thin strip of lash glue to my #130 lashes and allowed the glue to become tacky (with the house of lashes glue its almost immediate). Then I doubled them up on my pre cut House Of Lashes Iconic and applied the lashes from the outer corners of my eyes, to the mid lid, and finally inner corners. Always apply more glue to the inner corners because trust me, spiky lashes in your eyes all day isn’t fun!