Springy Orange Smokey Eye Leo Zodiac Makeup Tutorial
*Cover Fx Cream Foundation, N100+N0
*Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powder, Mirage Filter
*Becca Beach Tint Shimmer Soufflé, Guava/Moonstone
*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana
*Mac Mineralized Skin Finish, Lightscapade
*Milani Color Statement Lipstick, Sweet Nectar 01
For such a striking bout of colors an even skin tone is extremely important, not that it always isn’t for any makeup look, just more so with this being orange-yellow hues are prevalent. My one quick fix for anytime I have some skin issues, wether it be oiliness or dryness is my Peter Thomas Roth FIRMx Peeling Gel. This product is a keeper; visibly rolls off dead skin cells and leaves behind a matte radiance, what more could you ask for? I reallllly need to get my hands on my typical morning cleanser but sadly I haven’t, it’s causing some major skincare issues for me. Thankfully I have these amazing interchangeable masks and exfoliators, each are perfect for my sensitive skin! After washing off the peeling gel with some warm water I proceeded to entrenching my skin in my Fresh Seaberry Oil. The interesting part about this thick oil is it works all year around. For instance, last Summer when my skin was an oil slick the omega oils combated it and prevented further acne breakouts. This Winter the same conundrum occurred, dry skin say bye bye bye! Be sure to allow whatever product(s) you use to set in for an allotted amount of time, your pores should be happily drinking the hydrating serums/oils/creams 🙂
You guy’s know I’m a stickler for my Natasha Denona Face Glow Primer, if I could buy jars full, I would. This has to be the BEST primer I have ever used, in fact I have tried it on clients with OILY SKIN and it actually helped to combat the excess oil’s, plus the fact they reported back to me (I did a tiny study hehe) that during the day their face remained neutral, meaning it didn’t get too dry or too oily, which is always a good thing! With all of that good stuff being said, I simply took a finger tip amount of primer onto my…finger? (somehow that sounds very odd but its oh so true) and began to evenly spread the product out from the center of my face to towards my hairline. Using this method will be the most effective way of applying primer, however if you’re anything like me HAVE FUN WITH IT and slosh it around just as if you were smoothing in a morning cleanser, yes I’m still on the cleanser don’t judge me! I will not use any other primer than this, so for the drugstore tutorial circulating around expect N.D. nothing less nothing more.
I’m starting to question the importance of foundation in this look being I go so heavy on the cream contouring, then I realize HOLY HELL I LOVE THIS FOUNDATION STOP IT LILLEE. I randomly selected Becca’s Ultimate Coverage Foundation in Sand just for the reason the bottle is very unique, most foundation’s show the product inside with either glass containers OR with a peep hole/ peep strip on the outside packaging. Using my fabulous Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and exactly ONE pump of the foundation (literally all you need is one pump, it’s amazing) I began to evenly stipple the product onto my left cheek, specifically under my left eye which can be the identical of “center” of the face. Makeup is not an easy task, I know, however if you have the right motions NOT much can go wrong…not much. Okay, basically in the middle of my foundation I saw a dry patch (I must of missed it during the cleansing stage) and had a freak attack of applying tons of the creme foundation to the spot. DO NOT do this, simply get an oily and mix it into the current foundation present on the back of your hand THEN proceed to stippling it on. I wish I would of done that prior than wasting a full pump but whateves. In my opinion, don’t bother with allowing the foundation to dry because cream contouring will simply swish around the product anyway! The purpose of the foundation is to a) make ourselves happy that we all can look spiffy with one layer and b) to even things out a tad, wether it be blemishes or discoloration its better to start with a light layer and work up.
It took me a few minutes to remember which bronzer I had used, I really was sick come to think of it BUT I PULLED THROUGH with this fabulous look :)! First off, I allowed the contour creams to set for a good 3 minutes. The Cover Fx creams happen to contain a lot of oil which does not mix well with powder formulas! Once my face started to matte down a tad I picked up my Mac 168 brush and swirled it into the Bobbi Brown Golden Light Bronzing Powder. I of course tapped off excess on the side of the container before application, working in layers is your best bet! I simply brushed the product from my temples down to the hollows of my cheeks and around to my jaw line. Though I never put my input on steps such as these, bronzing wise I’d suggest a matte bronzer just to keep attraction on the eyes, shimmer will detract as hard as that might seem to believe! For a seamless appearance I went into the dark bronze powder provided in the MJ #instamarc pallet. With the same Mac 168 brush I blended the powder right across the hollows of my cheeks and sides of my nose. Not only does adding the contour powder add more depth, it forms a nice gradience of color which looks a hell of a lot more natural than straight lines smudged around! I am not a fan of powder highlighting, if you want to use it for this look go for it. I just feel I use SOO much on my under eye area and such it’s ridiculous to pack on more product!
I absolute love my Becca Beach Tint, def need to get my hands on some more of these! Be sure to check out my haul blog/video for some swatching (don’t you love self promotion LOL). With the Elf Ultimate Blending Brush that was used from the past 2 previous steps I gently stippled the brush into the product then proceeded to patting it onto the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline! Using this method of apples-hairline gives an uplifted appearance and adds tremendously to the contoured look, it DOES NOT however work for everyone. Since the beach tint is super radiant I decided to pump up the glow with several brushed layers- before freaking out, just read. First things first I took a pea-sized amount of Nars’s Liquid Illuminator to the back of my hand, there was a separation of oil-shimmer particles so I actually had to warm the product up a tad by mixing the mixture back together! After doing so I took my ring and middle finger together and began to gently pat the product onto my cheekbones (up to my hairline for added depth), on the bridge of my nose (mostly on the tip and center bridge), and on my cupid’s bow. Be sure to choose an illuminator that isn’t too pink and not too bronzy in tone, this will detract away from the sunny aspect this makeup look as a whole brings! With that being the case, I took my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush and brushed over the liquid illuminated areas with Mac’s Lightscapade Skin Finish powder. I built up quite some pigment on this just to ensure when in natural lighting every angle would “pop” off the screen!
Sadly not much was done for the lips, I know you guy’s are sooooo bent out of shape from that factor *eye roll*. I have been dying to use Milani’s lipstick in Sweet Nectar, literally it has been in my lipstick rack for two weeks!! All it took was two full coatings and bam, neon orange. The best part about the Milani Color Statement line is each shade requires only one swipe, I just went for two for added shine! A slight bit of baking was done right before the lash application, I simply took my Laura Mercier Powder and patted it onto my under eye area, between my jaw and cheek contour, on the sides of my nose, on my chin and forehead using a damp Beauty Blender Pro. Once I had my lashes fully on and did some minor touch ups I proceeded to blending the powder gently out using Sephora’s Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush. Everything was set with a light layer of Urban Decay’s All Nighter Spray :)!
*Nyx Jumbo Eye Pencil, Milk
*Sugarpill’s Burning Heart Pallet, Flamepoint, Buttercupcake, Love +
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow, Penelope
*Kat Von D Tattoo Eyeliner, Trooper
*Lancome Hypnose Doll Lashes, So Black!
*Kiss True Volume Lashes, Ritzy
When stepping into this look do be aware IT IS NOT as hard as it may seem, all you should need is two blending brushes and one flat shade brush, the rest is history…well and some good brows too! Having clean cut sharp edges is SUPER important, just like with bright colors you DO NOT want to detract away from the main focus, plus the fact Leo’s are the lion’s of the bunch making them precise and feisty. Using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush I first began by giving each brown a gentle spoolieing too ensure the hairs all went one direction, left or right depending on the eye. I then went along to getting my Dipbrow in Caramel, in which I noticed I left the jar open which froze it solid, joy. The basic method I use for brows is lining the top and bottom brow with straight thick lines, in which connected at the tail of my brow(s) then filling them in with light upward brush strokes. I give my brows a last spoolieing to ensure the product evenly disburses out! Once my brows were set I then moved forth in smudging Nyx’s Jumbo Eye Pencil to my lid area. Using a strong white base is SUPER important, you really want to make sure the shades pop! I made sure to bend the milky shade up to my brow bone and around to my lower lash line.
Rather using the technique of get the lid shade placed then work on the crease I out right began with washes of color, especially with such vibrant colors that seamlessly “gradiate” into each other the wash method is helpful and less time consuming! With my Mac 217 brush I began to pat on Buttercupcake to my entire lid area with light patting motions, only occasionally did I dust the shade around. After the lid had a good pigmented base I then worked on easing the shade up into my crease with side to side motions. As you work on the side to side motions you’ll see that your hands natural move upwards, thus naturally disbursing the product out evenly as you blend! Once Buttercupcake was set I went over the shade once with my Mac 224 to swiftly soften the bright yellow up. Herrrrrreee comes the fun part, be especially careful with how you place Flamepoint it’ll peep out during the final touches! Switching back to my Mac 217 I swished my brush into Flamepoint and began blending the color onto my lid with side to side motions, for this I followed the natural creasing of my eye socket just to ensure the shade corresponded to my eye shape well. Do be alerted that the color MIGHT fade out as you progress with deeper colors, don’t fret towards the end I smudged my finger into flamey and patted it right in the center of my lid, like a halo eye! The next defining shade that really helps build up drama is Love +, with the same motions used previously I gently yet firmly eased the shade into my crease AS WELL AS inner corner’s of my eye. This effect helps the orange shade really stand out! Make sure when it comes time to deepen things up (like right now HAHA) you keep your colors in tact, meaning if Buttercupcake begins to fade be sure to blend a tad of the yellow back on. Black is NOT an acceptable color for this look, shocking I know, it’ll only deepen rather righten which is not the effect I am going for here! Using Muse from the Lime Crime Venus Pallet and my handy 217, I followed the same method of using the natural crease curve to blend in the shade BUT this time I keep the color more so on the outskirts just to prevent the shades mashing together too much.
By this point the crease is pretty much done with, move along to the lower lash to amp things up a bit ;)! With a Mac 239 flat shader brush I promptly pressed NOT SMUDGED on Penelope Pigment by Sugarpill across my lower lash line. Blending the pigment out will cause a ton of fall out, plus glitter particles disappear, which isn’t what we’re going for here! Once I built up a decent amount of pigment on Penelope I moved along to smudging Shell into the warm copper just for a highlighted effect, this will brighten up your eyes tremendously. Always know dark shades near the inner corners brings the eyes close and light shades bring them apart, if you have far set eyes work with adding Penelope closer to the inner corners! As you might of guessed the next step up is liner, and this time around go heavy with it. Before doing anything consisting of the upper lash line I went ahead and did things ass backwards, meaning I first smudged on Jet to my lower lash line using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush THEN lined my upper lash line with Kat Von D’s Tattoo liner! We all have our own beat and rhythm, find what works for you and stick with it love. The lashes are a major part of this look, def coat up on the lower lash line with mascara (Lancome Hypnose Doll Lash) and be sure to give you upper lashes some love too! After some deep thoughts I decided to give Kiss’s Ritzy another chance, and I definitely DO NOT regret it! Be sure your lashes are thick and extremely striking, anything less will not stand up against the bright yellow-orange hues, kinda like a Leo’s mentality.